By Robert M. Sorensen

The second one variation (1997) of this article used to be a very rewritten model of the unique textual content uncomplicated Coastal Engineering released in 1978. This 3rd variation makes a number of corrections, advancements and additions to the second one version. simple Coastal Engineering is an introductory textual content on wave mechanics and coastal tactics in addition to basics that underline the perform of coastal engineering. This publication was once written for a senior or first postgraduate path in coastal engineering. it's also compatible for self examine via someone having a uncomplicated engineering or actual technological know-how heritage. the extent of assurance doesn't require a math or fluid mechanics historical past past that offered in a customary undergraduate civil or mechanical engineering curriculum. the fabric p- sented during this textual content is predicated at the author’s lecture notes from a one-semester path at Virginia Polytechnic Institute, Texas A&M collage, and George Washington collage, and a senior optionally available direction at Lehigh collage. The textual content includes examples to illustrate a few of the research suggestions which are offered and every bankruptcy (except the 1st and final) has a set of difficulties for the reader to unravel that additional reveal and extend upon the textual content fabric. bankruptcy 1 in short describes the coastal atmosphere and introduces the re- tively new box of coastal engineering. bankruptcy 2 describes the two-dimensional features of floor waves and offers the small-amplitude wave idea to help this description.

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**Example text**

The surface particle velocity at the wave crest Uc = Co + 1tHIT and at the trough U, = Co - 1tHIT for a deep water wave. Apply the Bernoulli equation between these two points to derive Eq. 16). 22. For a given wave height and period and water depth which of the following wave parameters depend on the water density: celerity, length, energy density, particle pressure, and particle velocity at a given depth? Explain each answer. 23. How does increased water viscosity affect a wave train as it propagates toward the shore?

20. Using shallow water wave equations for celerity and water particle velocity and the criteria that at incipient breaking the crest particle velocity equals the wave celerity, derive a criterion for wave breaking. Comment on the result of this derivation. 21. To an observer moving in the direction of a monochromatic wave train at the wave celerity, the wave motion appears to be steady. The surface particle velocity at the wave crest Uc = Co + 1tHIT and at the trough U, = Co - 1tHIT for a deep water wave.

To develop an equation for calculating the group celerity Cg consider two trains of monochromatic waves having slightly different periods and propagating in the same direction. 6 shows the wave trains separately (above) and superimposed (below) when propagating in the same area. 6. Two wave trains shown separately and superimposed. two wave trains results in a beating effect in which the waves are alternately in and out of phase. This produces the highest waves when the two components are in phase, with heights diminishing in the forward and backward directions to zero height where the waves are exactly out of phase.